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French Bulldog ~ New Puppy Instructions

  • * DIET:
  • Our French Bulldog and FrenchBo pupies are Fed the Nature's Domain Salmon and Sweet Potato.(it is suitable for all life stages) This is free feed available 24/7 for the pup as well as fresh water. We recommend a good quality grain free. This kibble has no corn, wheat or glutens and has added Pro and Pre Biotics! We purchase Our Kibble at Costco. We also supplement our kibble with 1) Dog Bloom 2) Brewers Yeast 3) Coconut Oil Powder. If you would like more details please visit our French Bulldog Nutrition Page.

  • Please keep new stimulations to a minimum when your puppy goes home with you for the first week. They are BABIES and must have naps, eat and drink frequently, and process all the new changes in their life. Dehydration and overstimulation during transition can seriously sicken your puppy, and incur unnecessary vet costs. When they are sleeping, they are growing, DO NOT DISTURB THEM IF AT ALL POSSIBLE.

  • 1/2 soaked kibble, 1/2 cooked rice, brown or white will help firm stools. Also natural canned pumpkin or Ground raw Pumpkin seeds works great, mixed in with some soaked kibble if they will not eat it straight. Please do not feed canned foods , they are high in sodium and terrible for their teeth. Please examine the puppy’s stool regularly, if anything about their stool does not appear normal, have it checked by a vet.

  • Until your puppy has ALL their shots, you are its environmental protection against disease! Here is a simplified example of how Vaccinations work: I have a litter of 10 puppies. I give the first vaccination at 7 weeks, only 5 puppies immune systems are developed enough to make antibodies to those diseases. I give the second vaccination at 10 weeks, another two pups develop antibodies. I give the third vaccination and the remaining two pups HOPEFULLY have developed antibodies. I give a fourth just to make sure, SINCE I HAVE NO WAY OF KNOWING WHO HAS DEVELOPED ANTIBODIES!! The ONLY sure way to know if your pup has developed antibodies to any disease is to have a " Blood Titer test "done at your veterinarians office . This can be expensive but worth it if you really want to know. Please do not space your puppies Vaccination closer than 3 weeks apart.

  • When Completing Vaccinations:
  • Arrange for Vaccinations to be given in the morning, on a day when your schedule will allow for low to no environmental stimulation, and you can observe your puppy. If there is a negative reaction to the Vaccination and it is serious, you will then have plenty of time to get your puppy to the Vet during business hours!

    **We vaccinate with a with a Modified Live Virus Type 5 way. Also known as a Canine 1-DAPPv, which stands for – Canine Distemper(Distemper)- Adendovirus type 1 (Hepatitis ) - Adendovirus type 2 (Respiratory Disease)– Parainfuenza(canine influenza)- Parvovirus (Parvo)Vaccine. We have our puppies on a vaccination schedule 3 weeks apart, starting at 7 weeks of age, a total of 4 vaccinations by the time the puppy reaches 16 weeks old.


    *Rabies Vaccinations are a required vaccination your puppy will need at or around 16 weeks of age, and is required to obtain your county dog license. A Veterinarian ONLY can give this vaccination for it to be recognized by the county. Your Vet will issue you a Vaccination certificate, and may also be able to complete your dog license on behalf of the county.

  • *NO dog Parks
  • *NO rest areas on highways
  • *ALWAYS take your puppy in a carrier to the vets office
  • *DO NOT set the carrier on the floor
  • *DO NOT allow other animals in the office to have contact with your puppy
  • If they weigh scale is a rubber matted one and does not get sanitized after each animal is weighed, please ask your technician to place a sanitized towel on the scale and re-zero it before you place your puppy on it.
  • I am very strict about this, if they will not do it, find another vet. They are providing a service to you and should cater to your wishes, mine do!

    Canine Parvovirus - "Parvo"
    Education and Prevention Procedures.

    * Parvo Virus is considered “ubiquitous” (existing or being everywhere at the same time: constantly encountered: widespread) and can infect a dog or puppy in any environment. Incubation time can be as quick as 3 days, or as long as 14 days.

    So, according to what we have learned about Parvo is that the best you can do is to knock the volume of parvo down in your environment, but, you will never completely kill it. The severity of infection in a puppy is a direct reflection of the amount of parvo virus it has encountered.

    A parvoviral infection can be picked up ANYWHERE though it is easier to pick up an infection in an area where an infected dog has been present simply because of the larger amounts of virus present in a contaminated area.

    Whether an individual dog gets infected or not depends on the number of viral particles the dog experiences, what kind of immune experience the dog has had with the virus before (vaccinated? previously infected? how much past exposure?), and how strong the individual dog is (stress factors, diet, etc.)

    A typical/average infectious dose for an unvaccinated dog is 1000 viral particles. For some dogs far less is needed. For other dogs, far more is needed. An infected dog sheds 35 million viral particles (35,000 TIMES the typical infectious dose) per OUNCE of stool.



    The original Parvo crossed from cat Panleukopenia (a Parvo virus) and affected the gut of dogs. We had Parvo in dogs that caused little issues so this new diarrhea Parvo was named Parvo 2, affecting only dogs. The newer strains of Parvo, including 2A & B, reproduced in wildlife and cats, but still preferred canines. 2c Parvo will readily go back and forth to wildlife and cats where it reproduces and spreads. That gives the new strains a competitive advantage and keeps the wild virus in the environment.

    Parvovirus is a highly contagious virus which causes vomiting and diarrhea, and often leads to death in susceptible dogs. Parvovirus is a very durable virus, and can remain in the environment for many months. Parvovirus is primarily spread to other dogs by the fecal-oral route,

    however it can be spread on hands, feet, clothing, tools, rodents and flies traveling from location to location. Dogs may carry the virus on their fur and feet even if they themselves do not get ill.

    The virus enters the dog through the nose or mouth and has an incubation period of 3 days to 2 weeks (usually 5-7 days).

    Vaccination will greatly reduce the risk of dogs becoming ill with parvovirus, however no vaccine will protect 100% of animals. In puppies, maternal antibodies interfere with the ability of the vaccine to provide a long-term effect. If the bitch was vaccinated for parvovirus in the past, she will give antibodies to her puppies, via her milk (colostrum). Maternal antibodies gradually wear off, and become ineffective in most puppies between four and sixteen weeks.

    In young puppies, maternal antibodies protect them against disease; however vaccinations will NOT WORK while maternal antibodies are present. The picture below was adapted from Greene’s Infectious Diseases of the Dog and Cat.

    The picture demonstrates how maternal antibodies (‘mean antibody titer’) decrease over time, and how vaccinating while maternal antibodies are higher than the ‘minimum titer to block vaccine’ will not protect puppies. Because of this risk, we recommend vaccinating puppies every three weeks until they are 16 weeks old, in an effort to make the ‘window of susceptibility’ as small as possible and to increase the likelihood that our vaccine protocol will protect our puppies from parvovirus. Vaccinating more often that every three weeks is not effective. Once maternal antibodies are no longer a factor, the vaccine protects the puppy against parvoviral infection within 2 to 7 days; one vaccine will protect the puppy against disease in this situation. (No “booster” per se is needed with this vaccine.) This may occur at any time from the first vaccine to the last, depending on the amount of maternal antibody the puppy received.

    If you would like to know for sure if your puppy has resistance or titer against Parvo, you can request a blood titer test from your veterinarian.

    Here is our protocol for treatments and vaccinations:

    Before your new puppy comes home with decontamination procedures completed, AND for the first three weeks AFTER you bring your puppy home:

    1.) Whenever you leave the home and return, sanitize your shoes and hands with a 1:32 dilution of bleach (1/2 cup bleach in a gallon of water) or Trifectant / Virkon spray (shoes only with this product) OR remove your shoes and place them completely out of reach of your puppy / areas. IT IS CRITICAL THAT YOU DO NOT WALK THRU YOUR HOUSE WITH YOUR CONTAMINATED FOOTWEAR ON!

    2.) Make sure your dog is properly vaccinated. Puppies should receive their first vaccines at 6-8 weeks of age; boosters should be administered at three-week intervals until the puppy is 16 weeks of age, and then again at one year of age. Previously vaccinated adult dogs need boosters every year.

    3.) Limit your puppy’s exposure to other dogs and animals that leave and reenter the home (they can be carriers, even if they are not ill) until he’s had his first three vaccinations.

    4.) Avoid walking yourself or taking your puppy to places where your puppy could be exposed to parvovirus from unvaccinated dogs. HIGH RISK AREAS: I-5 or Highway rest areas, dog parks, pet stores, play groups, and other public high risk areas should be avoided by you and your puppy until your puppy is fully vaccinated.

    5.) When visiting your vet for wellness check-ups and vaccinations, carry your puppy in your arms outside and leave him on your lap, or wait in your car while waiting for your appointment. Walking where other dogs have walked and gone to the bathroom, or allowing anyone other than the veterinarian touch your puppy will increase your puppy’s risk of contracting disease.


    Parvovirus is very difficult to kill and can live in the environment for many months to over a year.

    Because the canine parvovirus is not enveloped in fat the way the distemper virus is, canine parvovirus is especially hardy in the environment. It is readily carried on shoes or clothing to new areas (which accounts for its rapid worldwide spread shortly after its original appearance). It is able to overwinter freezing temperatures in the ground outdoors.

    Regular soaps and disinfectants DO NOT kill parvovirus. Areas that cannot be cleaned with bleach or Trifectant / Virkon may remain contaminated. Remember, the virus can survive on a variety of objects, including food bowls, shoes, clothes, carpet and floors.

    Given that this is such a tough virus to destroy, many people want to know exactly what they must do to disinfect an area that has contained an infected dog or how long they must wait before safely introducing a new dog to a previously contaminated area.

    Here is what we know about how contaminated an environment is likely to be:

    Infected dogs shed virus (in their stool) in gigantic amounts during the 2 weeks following exposure. Because such enormous amounts of virus are shed, there is a HUGE potential for environmental contamination when a infected dog has been there.

    It is important to realize that because the canine parvovirus is so hardy in the environment, it is considered "ubiquitous." This means that NO ENVIRONMENT is free from this virus unless it is regularly disinfected.

    A parvoviral infection can be picked up ANYWHERE though it is easier to pick up an infection in an area where an infected dog has been present simply because of the larger amounts of virus present in a contaminated area.


    In most households, owners want to know how to disinfect their homes to create a safer environment for the other dogs there or to create a safe environment for a new puppy.

    Despite decontamination procedures, parvovirus remains virtually impossible to completely remove from an environment. The goal of decontamination is to reduce the number of viral particles to an acceptable level.

    Indoor decontamination:

    Indoors, virus loses its infectivity within one month; therefore, it should be safe to introduce a new puppy indoors one month after decontamination procedures are implemented:

    1.) We recommend steam cleaning to kill any virus particles present. Steam clean carpets, floors and furniture the puppy will have access to.

    2.) The best and most effective disinfectant against viruses (including parvoviruses) is BLEACH. (1/2 cup bleach in a gallon of water) and is applied to bowls, floors, surfaces, toys, bedding, and anything contaminated that is colorfast or for which color changes are not important. At least 10 minutes of contact time with the bleach solution (1/2 cup bleach in a gallon of water) is needed to kill the virus.

    3.) Trifectant / Virkon: These are highly effective, broad-spectrum disinfectants that can kill 99.99% of major bacteria and viruses within minutes. Proven to kill bacteria and fungi in less than five minutes and Parvovirus in less than ten minutes. These are penetrating disinfectants. They are safe around young puppies. Can be used indoors or outdoors. They penetrate organic matter and get the virus. This is the one we use to spray our gravel runs. Use the Tabs for smaller jobs and the Powder for large jobs. Virkon® S Disinfectant and Virucide dilutes easily in water for effective manual or machine operation.(sprayers). Solutions are stable for 7 days. One gallon is sufficient to treat 135 sq. feet. 10 minutes is the maximum necessary contact time.

    Outdoor decontamination:

    Disinfection becomes problematic for non-bleachable surfaces such as lawn. Outdoors, if good drainage is available, thorough watering down of the area may dilute any virus present.

    Freezing is completely protective to the virus. If the outdoors is contaminated and is frozen, one must wait for it to thaw out before safely introducing a new puppy.

    Shaded areas should be considered contaminated for seven months. (with no decontamination procedures implemented)

    Areas with good sunlight exposure should be considered contaminated for five months. (with no decontamination procedures implemented).

    WE RECOMMEND TREATMENT WITH: Trifectant / Virkon: These are highly effective, broad-spectrum disinfectants that can kill 99.99% of major bacteria and viruses within minutes. Proven to kill bacteria and fungi in less than five minutes and Parvovirus in less than ten minutes. These are penetrating disinfectants. They are safe around young puppies. Can be used indoors or outdoors. They penetrate organic matter and get the virus. This is the one we use to spray our gravel runs. Use the Tabs for smaller jobs and the Powder for large jobs. Virkon® S Disinfectant and Virucide dilutes easily in water for effective manual or machine operation.(sprayers). Solutions are stable for 7 days. One gallon is sufficient to treat 135 sq. feet. 10 minutes is the maximum necessary contact time.


    The primary socialization period of puppies is between 3 and 13 weeks. This period is critical for development of primary social relationships with humans and other animals. Puppies that are confined during this period are significantly more likely to develop behavioral problems (primarily fear and aggression) than puppies that are provided a socialization program. Puppies isolated from conspecifics (other puppies) until 16 weeks of age, were significantly more likely to display fearful behavior and be aggressed upon by other pups. They were unable to develop a positive relationship with other dogs Puppies raised in isolation until 16 weeks lose the capacity to exhibit playful behavior toward strangers. Previous research demonstrates that socialization is a critical step in the development of behaviorally healthy dogs.

    Puppies with parvovirus die within a few weeks of contacting the virus; puppies with behavior problems die within a few years. Because of the temporal disconnect between acquiring the disease (behavior or parvovirus) and mortality, the need to develop comprehensive socialization programs in puppies is often underestimated. A recent study demonstrated that puppies who attended socialization classes were more likely to be retained in their homes than those that did not.

    Behavioral problems are the primary cause of relinquishment of dogs to shelters. Thus, they are also the leading primary cause of mortality of dogs in animal shelters.Because of this, it is important to implement socialization activities for puppies which maximize socialization AND protect them from infectious diseases.

    Here are links to some of the research we have consulted in regards to parvo and parvo prevention:

  • Please follow the guidelines here to decontaminate your own environments and keep your new puppies as safe as possible while they complete their puppy series of vaccinations. Prior to your pup going home with you we are sending all of you a gallons worth of powdered disinfectant called Virkon aka Trifectant. this will now be part of our normal preparation for all of our puppy families.

    Here is more info on this product and where to purchase more if needed:

  • Please DO NOT leave your puppy unattended on any surface higher than the top of their head. (even if they are sleeping and you don’t want to wake them!) It may not be a tremendous distance but, the French Bulldogs have delicate limbs and can injure themselves severely.

    The Frenchies and FrenchBos are very spontaneous and can leap from your arms in split seconds. REPEATED jarring and shocks to their front legs will more than likely cause them to be deformed in their growth and develop arthritic conditions as an adult!

    So, please do not allow them to jump down from any surface if they do not have the muscle to jump up! As a baby without muscle, their joints bear the load of impact.

    *** WE INCLUDE A JINGLE BELL FOR YOUR PUPPYS COLLAR IN YOUR PUPPY PACK!*** This will keep you and visitors to your home from stepping on them and shutting them in doors and being injured/killed, escaping outside, also it makes it easier to find them when you can’t see them! The bell is also a great aid in potty training so you know when they are roaming away from you when they need to eliminate.

  • I cannot stress enough how important it is to have a safe place for your puppy to be when you are not supervising 100%! Many Vet's bills and heartaches can be avoided, as well as keeping you on track with your potty training!

    Step by step instructions are on our website!! We have Ex-Pens for sale as well as litter boxes and re-usable, washable pee pee pads.

  • The excitement of bringing a new puppy into the household is sometimes dampened by the morning after when the family have suffered disturbed sleep. Puppies usually go to new homes between the age of eight and sixteen weeks, depending on their size and when they have had their first vaccinations. Until this age have had the company of brothers and sisters to snuggle up to for company and warmth.

    The first day in the new home the puppy is cuddled, played with, and made the center of attention. Life is wonderful. At some point during the evening the family will put the pup to bed. The house becomes quiet. The puppy feels alone and there is no warm body of a brother or sister next to it. It is a natural reaction for the puppy to cry and whine to register a protest and the usual result is that one of the human family will stagger out of bed to console it for a few minutes and go back to bed.

    The pup will continue to cry, often louder, and again someone will get out of bed to console the pup or even to chastise it. The pup has learnt its first lesson- cry and you are rewarded with company, if only momentarily. Dogs learn fastest by rewarding them for certain actions and continuing to go to the crying puppy will reinforce the lesson that crying brings company. Hearts must be hardened for pups first night home.

    The decision must be made as to where the pup is going to sleep and the area made ready for it. The area must not be too large, remember that the pup is used to having other bodies close to it. The area must be warm and cozy (in the cooler climates) and bedding must be provided.

    * A radio may be left playing out of the pup's reach to provide some comforting noises during the silence of the household.

    * If chewing is not a serious concern, you can fill a liter or 2 liter plastic bottle with hot water in it, wrap it in a hand towel and place it in the sleeping area for the pup to cuddle with.

    *An old soft toy serves as a soft body to snuggle but remember to remove any parts such as plastic eyes and nose which the pup may chew.

    Supper should be given and the pup taken outside to relieve itself and then it should be put to bed with a kind word. The crying will commence softly at first but may build up to a crescendo as the pup calls louder. With a bit of luck it may cease after a short time but some pups will continue for the first night.

    Remember that if at any time you go to the pup you have rewarded the behavior and you will have to start all over again.

    Naturally you must be sure that the puppy is not crying because it is stuck or hurt but you will recognize the difference in the crying. It is natural that the pup will wake early in the morning and you should be ready to be greeted with exuberance and to respond with love and cuddles. Put the pup out to relieve itself, lavish it with praise for "performing" and then serve puppy breakfast after which, outside for toilet opportunities again, and then you are ready to spend the second day with your best friend.

  • This should by no means take the place of the advice of a veterinarian. Please consult your vet about the proper use of any of the items on this list. Below you'll find a basic checklist of medications and first aid equipment you should have on hand to care for your Puppy. It is advised that you always have these items with you when traveling as well!

    *A good Digital Thermometer. *Clear Eyes, for irritated eyes

    *Buffered Aspirin. For minor aches and pains. Most puppies can tolerate aspirin but do not give any other human pain reliever such as Tylenol or Advil.

    *Buffered aspirin such as Bufferin is better than plain aspirin and Ascriptin is better than Bufferin. Remember that the dosage for aspirin, like most pain relief medication, is based primarily on body weight. A puppy should never be given more than half of one tablet at a time or more frequently than every twelve hours. Some puppies are allergic to aspirin, so use with care.

    *Benadryl. (Diphenhydramine) Either capsule or liquid. Use this if the dog is stung by a bee or other insect, minor allergies, Vaccination reactions, also great for motion sickness when traveling. Keep in mind that if your puppy is stung by an insect or bitten by a poisonous spider – 1 sting on a 5 pound puppy = 30 stings on a 150 pound person! If your puppy is allergic or sensitive the Benadryl is a lifesaver! Dosage: Benadryl = 1 mg per 1lb of dog weight up to 50 mg .

    * Fortical/Nutrical. A high calorie nutritional supplement loaded with vitamins and minerals. Quality nutrition for picky eaters, dogs who are 'off food' or dogs who require an additional source of energy. Great tasting gel is easy to administer to your dog for a boost of supplemental nutrition any time.

    nutrition any time. * Witch Hazel. Dilute: ½ witch Hazel ½ distilled water. Great for face wrinkle cleaning, ears, tail pocket cleaning, feet (between the toes and creases) cleaning. ~ Please see more info about this in our library section.

    * Coconut oil. Apply liberally to faces/wrinkles, noses, feet (between the toes and creases), ears, tail pocket, scrapes, general owies.. Antifungal, Antibiotic, protective coating, moisturizer and more! ~ Please see more info about this in our library section.

    *Bag Balm. A good all purpose ointment for minor skin afflictions. Also good for cleaning ears. Do not put in his eyes.

    *Pepto Bismol. For minor stomach upset and diarrhea. Dosage: Pepto Bismol = 1 tsp per 20lbs of dog weight every 4 hours (tends to be more effective for diarrhea in dogs than strict antidiarrheal medications)

    *Kaopectate. For minor diarrhea. Dosage: Kaopectate = 1 tsp for each 20lbs of dog every 4 hours

    *Desitin Use for minor skin irritations, and minor sunburn .

    *Cough medicine (Triaminic) - Use to control cough and as expectorant. Dosage: Triaminic = 1 tsp per 20lbs of dog weight every 4-6 hours (short-term use only).

    *Anticoagulant (styptic Powder, Gel or Liquid) - Use to stop bleeding caused by cutting into the quick when trimming nails OR Minor injuries.

    *Antibiotic ointment –Triple antibiotic ointment

    *Hydrogen peroxide - Use to induce vomiting or as a general antiseptic cleanser Dosage: 1 tsp per 10lbs of dog weight, repeat once in 15 minutes if necessary (to induce vomiting)

    *Ophthalmic ointment (non-steroid) used for keeping your puppies eyes moist and healthy if dust is irritating them.

    *Medicated powder such as Gold Bond. Use for chaffing and heat rash.

    *3 cc/ml Syringes without needles, for ORAL liquid medicines or treatments.

    *Q-tips. Use for applying medication and cleaning ears.

    *Cotton balls. Use for applying medication, for cleaning and to keep ears dry while bathing.

    *Dog nail clippers or an electric grinder.

    Travel kit additions:

    * Unopened bottled water * Extra Harness/ Leash *Ziploc of Kibble * Super absorbent towel.

  • Deciding whether to have your Dog sterilized is one of the first important decisions that you will make as a pet owner. As with all decisions, there are pros and cons that need to be weighed before you decide on whether or not to spay or neuter your puppy.

    The Advantages of Sterilization

    Perhaps the greatest benefit of spaying and neutering is the decrease in the population of unwanted puppies. Accidental pregnancies and irresponsible breeding are real problems that result in unwanted puppies. These puppies often end up in animal shelters where the lucky ones are adopted and the unlucky ones are euthanized. Both the emotional and financial costs of this problem are staggering and could be avoided with responsible sterilization .Further, it is commonly believed that spaying and neutering can improve the health and attitude of Dogs.

    Spaying and neutering reduces your Dog’s hormone levels and lead to a significantly lower incidence of certain types of cancers. There is evidence that a female Dog gets the biggest health advantage if she is spayed prior to her first heat. Also, sterilization can reduce the dog’s urge to roam around looking for a mate. Dogs without the urge to roam are easier to control outside and safer because they have a lower risk of getting lost, stolen or hit by a car. Sterilized dogs, particularly male Dogs, are often less aggressive which helps to keep them safe and out of trouble.

    *It is our opinion that Males and Females are more trainable when it comes to housetraining and obedience, and make better pets.

    The Disadvantages of Sterilization

    While there is much evidence regarding the medical advantages of sterilization, there are some disadvantages that you should be aware of prior to taking your Dog in for surgery. First, there is the risk of infection and complications that come with all types of anesthesia and surgical procedures. Second, there is some evidence that the incidence of certain types of cancer rise even while others decrease. Of course, the biggest disadvantage of sterilization is that it often occurs while your dog is a puppy and you lose your option to breed the dog later in life.

    If your Dog comes from a fine pedigree or you wish to see her deliver puppies and you are prepared for the large amount of work and responsibility that comes with that, then spaying or neutering may not be the best option for you. Many veterinarians and non-profit agencies feel so strongly that dogs should be spayed or neutered that they often help pay the bill if an owner cannot afford the surgery. So, financial factors should not play into your decision regarding sterilization. Sterilization is a personal decision that each Dog owner has to make. It is important to know that you are not depriving your pet of anything and are working toward making his or her life much healthier.

    Further, by spaying or neutering your dog you are doing your part to help alleviate the overpopulation problem among dogs. It means that for every puppy that you could have placed in a home another puppy may be adopted rather than euthanized. So, unless you plan to breed your dog, it is important to carefully consider the costs and benefits of sterilization and to make your decision accordingly.

    We recommend spay/neuter between the age of 4 - 6 months for Boys, 6 - 8 Months for Girls. When at all possible, please wait until adult teeth have come in so that any baby teeth needing pulled can be done at the same time as the spay/neuter!

    When Spaying and Neutering your dog is a GREAT time to have these things done as well:

  • * Rabies
  • * Microchip
  • * Retained Baby Teeth Pulled
  • * Umbilical Hernias repaired
  • * Stenotic Nares surgery ( open the Nostrils )
  • We have a list of spay/neuter clinics in Oregon and Washington here on the website to assist you if needed. If your regular vet participates in the ASPCA Spay/neuter coupon program every year you may be able to use your vet AND get ½ off!